Bean to Bar

In late April of this year, I had the rare privilege of joining a masterclass, "Bean to Bar," on the stunning island of Oahu, Hawaii, alongside 12 other eager students from across the globe. Over the course of five immersive days, we were expertly guided through the intricate world of chocolate-making—an art that truly begins in the rich, fertile soil of a cocoa plantation. Our journey started at Kamananui Estate, where we plunged headfirst into the heart of cocoa farming, learning the delicate processes of planting, protecting, harvesting, fermenting, and drying the precious beans. Every step was critical—each choice we made had a profound impact on the flavor and quality of the chocolate we would eventually craft.

Cocoa grows only in tropical regions, but Hawaii is unique in its cocoa-growing potential. Enveloped by the vast Pacific Ocean, the island's climate is naturally moderated—creating the perfect conditions for cultivating this sacred crop. It’s also the only state in the U.S. with the right combination of tropical warmth and fertile land to grow cocoa commercially for export. 

On our first day, we rolled up our sleeves and got straight to work, harvesting the cocoa pods—each one about the size of an American football. Cracking them open revealed clusters of 30-60 cocoa beans, surrounded by a luscious, tangy-sweet pulp. Biting into the raw beans was a shock to the system—intensely bitter and astringent, a far cry from the silky chocolate we all know and love. It was like meeting chocolate’s wild side before it gets tamed.

The next stage was fermentation, which felt a bit like witnessing magic in slow motion. We gathered the freshly harvested beans and brought them to a shaded shed, where they were carefully poured into wooden fermentation boxes and covered with banana leaves. It’s here that the pulp—teeming with wild yeast and native bacteria—begins to work its wonders. Over the course of 5 to 10 days, the beans undergo a dramatic transformation, not just in color but in flavor, becoming rich and complex. The process generates so much heat that we had to turn the beans regularly and monitor the temperature to ensure perfection. This, we learned, was where the real alchemy happened.

With fermentation behind us, it was time for drying—a crucial phase that deepens the flavor profile even further. Since our schedule was tight, we took over another batch that was ready to go. The beans were spread out on large screens under the Hawaiian sun, which acted as a natural oven. Every hour, they needed to be rotated to ensure even drying. Depending on the intensity of the sun’s rays, this process can take one to two weeks. Once the farmer felt the beans had reached just the right level of dryness, they were ready to head to the chocolate factory.

Next, we ventured to Kailua to visit the cutting-edge Manoa Chocolate factory—a must-see for any chocolate lover. The facility doubles as a charming chocolate and wine bar, so naturally, we indulged in a few decadent tastings!

Inside the factory, we dove into the heart of chocolate production. First, the beans were roasted, releasing their intense, tantalizing aromas. This step is all about balance—over-roasting can ruin the delicate flavors, while under-roasting leaves them flat. Then came the winnowing, where the beans were cracked and their shells removed, leaving behind the prized cocoa nibs.

The nibs were then ground into a rich, velvety paste called chocolate liquor, made up of cocoa solids and cocoa butter. This thick, luscious mixture was blended with sugar, milk, and other ingredients to create different types of chocolate. It was mesmerizing to watch as the mixture was stirred and heated for hours, smoothing out and evolving into the indulgent chocolate we all crave. The final step was tempering—a delicate dance of heating and cooling that gives the chocolate its glossy finish and satisfying snap. With our tempered chocolate in hand, we poured it into molds and, with great anticipation, watched it cool into solid bars.

But the true surprise came on the last day, when we returned to the plantation for one final gift—each of us had the chance to plant two cocoa trees and label them with our names. It was a heartfelt gesture that left us all feeling deeply connected to the land and the process we had just experienced.

This was a once-in-a-lifetime adventure! The process of making artisan chocolates has become even more of an art form for me! From the raw, untamed beans to the luxurious, finished product, I now have a deep appreciation for the craftsmanship and care that goes into every step. The instructors were nothing short of amazing, and it was a joy to share this transformative journey with passionate chocolate enthusiasts from around the world.